A former half-Dutch and half-Italian resident of the Monument House in Utrecht, had recommended visiting Lucca, 30 minutes by train from Pisa airport and easily accessible by foot from the station. Here the duo stayed for two nights in a penthouse bed and breakfast called “Al Tuscany” in the pedestrian-only historical centre. Dionne Warwick was singing the first night. The second night they caught an evening concert of opera highlights, featuring a blind tenor. At midnight, they bought designer sunglasses on a whim --- what else do you do at that hour?